Three Blondes, One Brunette and Bigos in Norway.

Mountains, forests, little wooden houses and stunning fjords; Vikings, legends, sagas, runes and dark music; moose and reindeer. These are the most common things that we associate with Norway. These were what I expected to see and/or explore on my trip this May. 

What I actually experienced was far beyond those and much better than I expected and imagined.

Now to understand how crazy this trip was you need to know few important data. There was four and a half of us: three smart blondes – Asia, Dominika and I (Magda) and Bartek – one brunette guy (nobody’s perfect) and Bigos Różowos. We were driving from Kraków, Poland through Germany and Denmark to Norway and tried to get as far north as we could but we really wanted to see Trondheim. We had a willow-green Peugeot aka. autos seledynos tiny light green car, loads of food and toilet paper, tent and sleeping bags. The plan was that there is no plan.

We started on the 3^rd of May, which is usually very warm and sunny in Kraków but this time lovely global-warming-weather decided that it should be 2 degrees Celsius and snowing! Yes snowing in Poland in May is the same as snowing in Ireland or San Francisco in May! It never ever happened in my life before! I have to say that lovely and absolutely packed car (I couldn’t move and getting in and out caused serious problems), which at this time of year had already summer tyres, made it perfectly and safely to the border with Germany, where it magically was 18 degrees and sunny (borders do matter for weather!).

We only saw about eleven accidents on the road. Thankfully no one died during that day on the roads, which I say is a true miracle.

Our road through Germany was quite boring – we drove. We only stopped in Berlin for very short tour through city centre – Unter den Linden and museums quarter, later delicious dinner in 22^nd century digitalised restaurant called Holyfields (http://www.holyfields.de/de/restaurants/berlin-unter-den-linden.html). If you ever have a chance to be in Berlin go there and have a burger sandwich with baked potatoes in sea salt and rosemary. The place looks very posh and kinda chill-out style which I hate when it comes to bars, venues, restaurants etc. for me this style lacks any kind of spirit or character. But Holyfields was a bit different. I won’t tell you why because the curiosity will make you go there! Let’s just say there is an interesting way of ordering the food. The staff are extremely friendly and food is beautiful and it’s cheap so even if your vintage/retro-loving rock chick like me you’ll fit in there.

And guess what we did next – we drove! Our next stop was in Denmark, first town after the border, where we had a small nap in our willow-green car. Actually from there until Hirtshals I was mostly asleep, so please allow me to skip that part.

Hirtshals was a lovely little town with extremely handsome shop assistant who sold us the best and biggest cinnamon rolls I’ve ever eaten. We love you!

Then we went on FjordKat, a lovely catamaran who took us straight to Kristiansand.

Unfortunately Norway greeted us with bit of greyness and rain but we already have been awed by its beauty and different architecture. The first day we just drove from Kristiansand to Stavanger beside which we wanted to stay for the night.

And here finally we come to a funny part. After we crossed the city we took a long drive through 10 km tunnel. Now, I’ve been in few long tunnels in my life like going under the Alps etc. and all those we usually flat tunnels sometimes with few bends but that’s it. This one was a little bit different, we went steeply down and then back up again… and coming back up was not so easy, the car was completely packed and we didn’t want to exceed speed limits, so we went up quite slowly… snail slowly actually. All would be good in we weren’t stalked by a huge white truck which was making weird sounds and giving us light signals , we couldn’t move anywhere cause there were cars coming on opposite way… so the truck had to stop because of us. Let’s just say we run away after that and till the end we were scared of white truck revenge!!! I bet it is still out there looking for our autos seledynos!

Our first campsite just outside Stavanger was pretty nice. Actually the best part was our first grill-and-instant-meal: Heineken, instant soup in a mug, grilled sausages and grilled toasts with cheese. Delicious and it kind of became our set menu for the most of the trip. The tent was easy to set up but it was just so damn cold that during the night that I could actually feel the blood running through my veins and freezing on its way.

In the morning after making ourselves fabulous we went on. Honestly I have absolutely no idea where we went as we were just loosing ourselves in ferries, fjords and amazing landscapes between Stavanger and Bergen, where we finally got to in the evening just for a short run around city centre. Later on we were driving through millions of underwater tunnels and mountain peaks with snow. In these conditions we couldn’t find a place to stay so we ended up in a car. Note to self – never ever sleep in a car again!  But we caught the earliest ferry from Ytre Oppedal and it was a start to the most amazing day on the whole trip.

For that day actually we had a plan! To get to Geiranger Fjord, and camp there, through Trollstigen – trolls’ way, very steep and winding road up to the mountain viewing over one of the most beautiful and stunning fjords in the world.

We went from Ytre Oppedal to Stryn through one the most amazing places I have visited in my whole life: valleys, mountains, fjords, lakes, glaciers and waterfalls – all in just a day drive. Words cannot describe its’ beauty so I will just attach few more photos here.

Oh and we saw the reindeers. We almost hit the ditch after four of us, including Dominika the brave driver, screamed out loud REEEEEEIIINEEEEEEEEEEEEERRRSSSSSSSSS STOOOOOOOOP! She actually put the foot on a brake and turned abruptly right! We all couldn’t breathe for a while as the seat belts cut the air coming to our lungs but in a split of seconds we remembered about the reindeers and run out. So here they are:

Stryn was our stop for a hot and not instant meal and to stretch legs for a bit longer as it was the closest biggest town before Trollstigen and Geiranger. We supposed to be there in the evening so we took our time.

The road from Stryn towards Geiranger was absolutely stunning. It started as a steep, mountain way and then led us through few long and quite rough looking tunnels which run through the glacier until we finally got to the beginning of Trollstigen we got this:

We had two options: go back or go back. So we decided to go back as the sun was starting to set and the closest town that had some campsites was midway from Stryn.

Searching for a campsite in the middle of nowhere, at night before the official tourist season is actually great fun (I was still bright but I’ll get to that point later, actually you probably know… it is quite close to polar circle so during the spring and summer it is bright for a long long long time and it’s dark for a short short short time, in winter it is other way around so if you’re going there then bring loads of happy pills). We were quite lucky that a lovely gentleman in Holmevik (http://www.holmevik.no/frame1.htm) thought we must be out of our heads to sleep in a tent there and at night it’s going to rain and it supposed to be temperatures below zero. So he offered us a lovely hytte (cabin) for a really low price. We were in heaven! Cabin was really home-like and with everything you need there, we had a view on the lake and mountains.

Obviously we had to have our grilled-and-instant dinner along with Heineken leftovers with a lovely sunset around after 11pm. Oh yeah!

Next day we started off quite early, which is not going to happen in the coming days because we created a new tradition (I’ll explain later on). But this time we were determined to see everything we didn’t yesterday and still manage to get as closest as we can to Ålesund.

First stop was a ferry to Geiranger Fjord and back. I have to say it is a pity we didn’t see it down from the mountains but sailing through it was a great experience either. It’s breathtaking, beautiful, long fjord witch a picturesque little village at its end. We didn’t have much time to explore it but a quick run through souvenir shop was successful one. Oh and we met a new friend.

After the ferry we drove through yet again stunning and magical landscapes which were changing with every 5 minutes, so we had to stop all the time to take photos. On one of the stops I have been attacked by ants (I have this massive , irrational fear of ants so my reaction was somewhat hilarious to my companions – I run away from the car screaming and undressing in the middle of a road. Thankfully Asia rescued me!).

Then the road led us to another ferry through the fjords and finally we got to Ålesund. It was still early and bright so we decided to wander around the town and go to the hill with panoramic view on the town, fjords and little island surrounding the shore. The photos should explain a bit more:

Surprisingly we still got loads of time left until we should set up the tent, so we went to one of the islands – Giske. On the island there is an old stone church and lighthouse. The church is famous for being made of stone. There is not many churches like that in Scandinavia, most of them are wooden. I have a bit of a crush for lighthouses, they are just magical to me, so going to one at a sunset was a true highlight of the Norway trip to me. Magical!

It actually didn’t take that long to find another campsite. This time we found ourselves in a forest beside a lake feasting! Now this time for a dinner we went luxurious! Asia cooked couscous with some sauce! Try to do that in a forest! Another morning the surroundings were so beautiful and peaceful we decided to stop running like mad and take some time and relax after last few days. So the new tradition started which was actually celebrated from that day on till the end. We had a long breakfast outside and two additional coffees by the lake staring at water and enjoying the sun.

When your days starts like that you might be either sleepy or go mental. We are known company for rather being the second one, so we went mental. I’ll skip the part that whole day we drove through stunning landscapes (surprise!) towards Trondheim, which was our northern point we managed to get to on this trip. Finally we saw the signs warning us about moose and loads of little hyttes, regular houses and even the bus stops with grass covering its roofs.

On the mental part – whole drive we were playing the oldies and legend songs (like Bohemian Rhapsody). Imagine three insane blondes singing their thoughts out and dancing like mad in the car. Even Bigos Rożowos went mental while singing Bohemian Rhapsody! And that was a real life not just a Fanta Sea!

We decided not to go to Trondheim that night but camp outside town in a huge campsite in forest, on the hill beside the fjord. We got our little hytte with grass roof overlooking the campsite and its little beach and fjord on the other side. After few photoshoots when the sun started to set after midnight we started our biggest feast: instant soups and puree, grilled sausages and toasts with cheese, salmons, pickled red peppers and Norwegian beer (can’t remember the name anymore, we tried few and they were all nice lagers). Oh here I have to say that I fell in love with Japp. It is a chocolate bar very similar to Mars but less sweet and miles better! I got obsessed with it.

According to our new tradition we had lovely breakfast and coffee on the beach in the morning and we went to explore Trondheim. I have to say I truly fell in love with that little town. It’s lovely, great spirit and loads of friendly people. We saw the cathedral and park beside it and then just got lost in town buying fresh bread and some pasties, visiting chocolate shops (my new Mecca) and wandering around. I met a really good old friend of mine who lives there – Magda. So we had a lovely chat over ice cream about all recent gossips and news and also I learned loads about Norway and bought brunost (sweet and salty, dark brown cheese – delicious, a must-try item!). Also we found out why all teenagers wear weird, tracksuit like trousers with Norwegian flags on them… well they simply have to when they are graduating. There are three or four colours of them and that depends of the faculty of your school/class. The urban legend say they cannot take it off for the month, they can’t wash it cause all friends are singing them and also they have to go through all different test and trials and get some badges, they can’t take them off not even to take a bath… I really hope that is an urban legend!

We said our goodbyes to Trondheim and went south on our slow way to Oslo and the end of the trip. Oh! Another tradition started – waving to the cameras that record you so later on you have to pay for the motorway. I really hope they will send us those photos!

Next stop was a picturesque old town of Røros, where we wandered around for a while and then went on searching for the campsite as it was starting to get late and we were running out of petrol.

Two hours later we were still running out of petrol… badly and there were no signs of civilization or a open campsite!

After another two hours I think we were driving on vapour when we finally found one petrol station that was closing in next 10 minutes! Phew!

Another two hours we were still driving in the mountains with no civilization and even the road ended (and the song in the radio started: “…bad miles are tearing us apart…” we all burst in mad laughter) and it was so late that actually it was starting to get dark (after midnight), then luckily in the middle of nowhere somewhere near enough to Tynset and we found a small campsite and rented tiny hytte from a lovely old lady, who charged us really little. We had our usual feast and went to sleep with some mad addictive laughter… maybe because we all slept almost on each other.

Next morning we slept long time and treated ourselves a lovely breakfast and few sets of badminton. We were going through Norway’s midland – hills, forests, lakes, little rivers and lovely little towns. Still no sign of moose. Well ok there were signs all the time but we didn’t see an actual beast.

Our way led through another winding road in the mountains and national parks and then down again to a little town called Ringebu. This town is famous for a stave church (stavkirke – Viking style wooden church). The most famous examples of those are in Urnes but we missed them, so we couldn’t miss this one. The surrounding and town were very romantic and I have to say I took my favourite pictures on that location from the whole trip.

That evening we decided to try to look for campsite early. First we had loads of time before Oslo and we could relax and take it easy. Second we were freaked out after last night. So we found this amazing spot by the lake and forests just after Ringebu and after Asia’s wonderful dinner we went drinking on the beach having loads of competitions like “hit the  can with a stone” and playing cards.

Breakfast, breakfast, breakfast! This time our tradition went even further cause it was 26 degrees and beautiful sun so we had a breakfast at the lake, 3 coffees and then just did nothing for few hours before driving even more south. Next stop Olympic Lillehammer.

We went straight to the Olympic town and climbed the ski jumping jump. When we were on the top there was a huge storm cloud going our direction, so being on the top of the hill on the top of the metal structure was a bit stupid place to be, so we had to rush down the metal steps. Thankfully we didn’t get soaked and we had lovely views on Lillehammer town. 

We started our before last drive in Norway this time we wanted to camp just outside Oslo. Unfortunately all the campsites were closed or we could not find them or looked really dodgy, so we ended up in only one that was open and actually it was in Oslo already very close to Holmenkollen. Actually we could see the ramp from our tent. Also Oslo welcomed us with rain, so in the morning our tent was absolutely soaked (we didn’t thankfully) so our last night in Norway we had to spend indoors.

Our plan through Oslo was easy: Holmenkollen, Vigeland’s Park, Vikings Ship Museum and wandering around city centre and buying souvenirs. My favourite part though, was when we were reversing on the roundabout on a motorway trying to turn to city centre. It is always fun when you are a tourist and you can get away with things like that. And there was white truck behind us! Ha!

I have to say I loved Holmenkollen, the Park was stunning as well and museum was lovely but the Oslo town itself was not that nice. It’s just my opinion. It’s a bit unfriendly and lacks any spirit. Even though I was shown around by a friend it didn’t change my feeling about the town. As we all felt the same we decided that the same night we’re going to hit the road and try to sleep on some campsite before the Swedish border.

And again looking for a campsite was quite difficult as those parts of Norway are not too popular tourist attractions. Very late at night we got to last campsite before the border and met the loveliest owner and nicest person we did in Norway! When he saw the state of us he gave us an excellent price for a new hytte (he told us not to tell anyone… so shh! You haven’t heard anything from me!).

Next morning (after traditional breakfast) we had to say goodbye to our lovely friend grill and to Norway. We did last shopping in duty free shops on the border, collected our VAT (Yuss! It’s good to travel outside EU sometimes but still in Schengen so you don’t need any documentation). We went very quickly through Sweden. Goteborg, Malmo and through the bridge to Copenhagen.

There was astonishing sunset while we were going through the bridge. We could see whole Copenhagen with lovely red sun hiding behind it. Beautiful! And I already fell in love with that town. It was very late and we just wandered around city centre and end up in some lovely restaurant to celebrate Dominika’s birthday and recover strengths for further road.

Copenhagen was truly beautiful, magical, friendly and with romantic spirit. I have a personal plan to come back soon to explore the city properly! The only thing about that town was that our GPS died and to get out of that city was not so easy. Anyway we all fell asleep just outside town in the car.

Traditional breakfast was at a petrol station but we had a bit of grass and for our last money we managed to get coffees and pastries. Next stop was in Berlin for dinner in the same chill out digitalized place. Another stop was Kraków.

Oh! We didn’t meet any moose! That’s a disgrace!

I have to say this was one of those amazing trips that you will remember for a lifetime. In magical surroundings your thoughts become magical as well. And when that happens you can breathe more freely, clear your mind and set your thoughts. Also the company you are with is very important. I really have bonded with my fellow blondes: I know Dominika for over twenty one years so we had this mutual madness and Asia I only met once and she became a good friend of mine on whom I can rely. Sharing such a beautiful experiences with beautiful people is extraordinary nowadays. Most of the time I felt like I’m sixteen and I can go crazy and no one will judge me (well almost no one) and what’s more they gonna follow.

I never felt for Norway but after this trip it became really close to my heart. It is a place I definitively want to go back to. Especially that I haven’t been north from Trondheim and that is a completely different country. Therefore the recent horrible things that happened there really moved me and I can’t express my sadness and sympathies for Norwegians.

To end this, already too long story (dear readers if you managed to get to this point I admire you), I want to say that Norway is really a must-visit place and no words, blogs or guides will describe it. No photos will show its beauty and magic. You just have to go there, close your eyes and take a deep breath in and then you will know what I mean!

Websites: http://magdanowacka.com/portfolio,1.html and Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/MagdaNowackaPhotography

Donka: http://meshaniel.deviantart.com/

Bigos: http://www.facebook.com/don.bigos

Bigos goes to Norway

I have the pleasure to introduce you to my beloved Bigos. 

His name come from a traditional polish dish which is a sour cabbage, meat and mushrooms stew. He was given this name by a group of drunk students, so please do not even try to understand why it is so. There is no explanation and no reason for that name whatsoever.

Bigos is a globetrotter and travelled already to many countries. This time he goes back to his home town – Kraków, Poland for few days and then along with his friends he will travel by car to Norway.

He decided that this time he will write a full report from his travel along with tips and photos.

So dear readers stay tuned as Bigos goes to Norway and mid May he will be back to share some Norwegian madness with you.

My Connemara

Journal from Toraigh.

Journal from Toraigh.

2^nd April 2010 – Day 1.

Two photographers – Mr. Ciarán Fitzgerald and I decided in 2007 that we want to go to Tory (Toraigh) Island to take some great shots and enjoy ourselves. Unfortunately we were not lucky enough as the lovely Irish weather decided to show us who is the boss. The waves were ten meters high and ferry didn’t leave the island that day.

Three years after that we thought we should give it another go.

So here I am drinking too sweet tea, sitting beside the kind of warm fireplace (three people have already tried to start it – Ciarán so far is winning but we will see at the end of the essay, ha!) in a lovely quiet ambience and starting to write after a really long break.  The wind and rain are dancing outside and it seems that all problems and hassle, that we left just few hours ago, never existed.

I love Dunfanaghy. I’ve been here for about an hour and I discovered there is no network coverage. I’m not joking! None! Any network! So I asked the lady at the reception if there is any place inside B&B in which phones would work and she told me that the whole town doesn’t have a coverage for the last few days, probably because of the wind. I love this place and honestly it’s not that windy today.

The trip was very nice and quick. Ciarán’s white van was very brave in the pouring rain in the Northern Ireland. We left Dublin and head north, going through Louth, Monaghan, and Tyrone to finally reach Donegal. We had lovely, extremely huge and amazingly cheap late lunch in Greenmount in Carrickmacross, where everything was closed from 3 to 4 pm because of the ceremonies.

Ah yes! I forgot to mention that today is a Good Friday. I’m not really religious so I have absolutely no idea what the hell is going on! I don’t even know many Polish traditions, except those that we celebrated and most people do in Poland. Those are pagan traditions though, like blessing food on Saturday and pouring water on people on Easter Monday (Śmingus Dyngus – yeah Ciarán will learn that expression on Monday) for good luck, good fortune and obviously for success in love! But here in Ireland it’s even funnier cause they decided not to drink and the pubs are closed, except for Limerick this year as the rugby has more followers than any other religion and the pubs will be open because of the game. I bet there will be more games all around the country next year!

Anyway, coming back to the Carrickmacross, we had to wait 20 minutes outside restaurant because all towns disappeared somewhere for the “ceremonies” – ha! I bet they were all drinking! Sinners!

Quick updated on the fireplace – so we had our turns: Ciarán, me and a lovely German girl, who works here and unfortunately we didn’t succeed until I (taataaam – yes I am the boss) got a bit annoyed put a lot of wood there and did my dad’s old trick, which always works. So for an hour we have a lovely, warm, golden red, cracking fire with jumping sparkles. It really reminds me of childhood: the smell of smoke, the hypnotising, warm, dancing flames and silent and relaxing sound of cracking wood. I’m home. I really love Dunfanaghy.

3^rd April 2010 – Day 2.

For the start quick, funny episode from last night. I was woken up at least twice in the middle of the night as my travel mate was shouting. When I opened my eyes it was dark and he was asleep and he was talking and screaming! I could not understand a word. Then I realised it was Irish! He told me in the morning he had a dream that he was talking to his neighbour in Dingle. Have to say he sounded quite angry.

Grey skies over Dunfanaghy. Hot, lovely shower, bagels with jamón and black coffee for good morning and then off to ferry in Magheroarty. On the way we got some cream eggs for Easter and national lottery ticket just in case we were to become millionaires this weekend. Good news was that the skies over Tory were blue and the sea seemed very quiet until we got on the ferry, or should I rather say a boat. It was 10 meters long and about 3-4 wide there was maybe three people from the crew and about 10-12 passengers. When we got to an open sea (read Atlantic Ocean) it became a bit rough. Up and down would be fine, but up and down and on the sides made it impossible to walk on the ferry, wave were crashing on the boat so very quickly we had to hide our cameras because everything was covered with salt. The views were amazing though as the visibility was very good and we could see shores far down to Malin Head. The journey was just an hour long.

There was no King! Tory Island is famous for having a King and being a monarchy. He always greets all the visitors coming to the island beside the pier. But he wasn’t there. Extremely disappointed we got to the hostel which was three minutes away. In West Town everything is up to 5 minutes away and it’s a lovely, nice town with old houses painted white and red.

Our first destinations were the East Town, Balor’s Fort and the Wishing Stone. We went on and in a minute we were stopped by a weird guy with too many earrings and golden rings. Mr. Patsy Dan, the King of Tory Island. Yep yep we got this honour that he even walked with us (until the shop) telling us what we can see and do on the island and also we got an invitation for a party in the Club.

We finally started taking some photos. Obviously I had to forget something, so I have to run half of the island to the hostel to get a remote for my camera and then run back. The weather was amazing. Beautiful blue skies, few fluffy white clouds and even warm (I was very warm in my four layers: top, turtle neck, blouse and water and windproof jacket but Ciarán may not agree with me).  Then we went along the East Town, saw beautiful cliffs and got to the Balor’s Fort, where we started to wonder how the Wishing Stone looks like. Ciarán was googling it and when we finally knew all what there is to know about that stone had a quick lunch, which as we know now, cost us a lot.

Having all my wishes ready and three lucky stones in my pocket we went up the hill to find the Wishing Stone. It is a cliff needle and in order to have your wish to come true, you can climb it and turn around on it three times or simply throw three stones on it. We decided on throwing the stones only because we wanted to pretend we are quite normal people. As we were climbing up and we have literally been two meter from the top, from which as I believe you must be able to see the stone, we noticed it got weirdly gray, cold and there is a fog all around us. Well as you may assume it was no fog, but a gigantic storm cloud coming exactly at us from the Atlantic Ocean, with the light speed. I only managed to put my camera in the bag, turn around and start running down, when hail got us, we couldn’t see up to more than about ten meters and we were in a heart of a storm. Now I admit to something that does not happen too often. I panicked. For my excuse I tell you that I read there will be thunderstorms in Donegal over Easter and I would not like to be caught on the cliff by an Atlantic thunderstorm about half an hour running to the closest house. It’s as dangerous as in the mountains. So we run with my metal tripod which for a second there I thought to leave behind, just in case of the thunders. As far as I remember it was like that: cloud, camera, hail, wind, thunder, run, tripod, bog, wet socks, pouring rain, frozen hands, soaked to pants, phew back on the road to civilisation.

After 15 minutes it was all over because, as I mentioned, this cloud travelled with the light speed. We were in the sun with blue skies again just looked and felt like drowned rats. Except our clothes and rheumatism in our hands, when we are 80, nothing happened. Well we have never made it to the wishing stone! Our friend cloud moved over Donegal and when we saw it afar I have to say we were extremely lucky.

It was early afternoon we changed to something bit drier (for example completely dry) and decided we go to explore the west end of the island with the lighthouse and if we have some time we go back to the wishing stone. I must say the lighthouse and way to it are not too interesting except pretty good view at Donegal and rabbits. Yes there are a lot of rabbits in the Tory! Anyway we went north and there were more beautiful sights like cliffs and if you have a good sight – Iceland. It was sunny again and we decided it’s a second go to the east side. We just left our stuff home, got lucky stones ready and went quickly out. And believe me or not, after 5 minutes walking we saw (this time we knew where to look) another black cloud. Seriously! It was exactly the same as the previous one and it moved with the light speed and moved like 200 meters from us! So we never made it to the wishing stone! Now we have a reason to go back to Tory.

After being super happy that we weren’t soaked again we decided on two things: food and Guinness. On our way to the Club we found a cafe and first time ever (yes after living 4 years in Ireland) I had fish and chips. Lovely stuff. I had view at the lights of Donegal and loads of stars. In the club nineish we were the first customers cause as we were told Tory people start to party at eleven. Now here is lovely information for beer lovers. Guess how much it is for a very good pint of Guinness in Tory? It’s 3,7EUR! That is mad!!!! Therefore we had quite few too much and to make long story short: pool, Guinness, pool, Guinness, King, music, Guinness, ceili, King singing, ceili, Guinness, last song, 2:40 am, home, sleep.

4^th April 2010 – Day 3.

Hangover day. OK. This day wasn’t too interesting. We were tired and hangovered. We got caught up by another cloud on our way to ferry and soaked again. Then we were the only people on the boat and it was a bit rough again. Not as bad anymore and sun and blue skies were helping a lot. In Magheroarty we had to have a longer brake to warm up, dry and eat apple pie. Also I had internet video chat with my family in Kraków. What is more local people talked Irish to me. Then still dying we went to south of Donegal to finally reach our hostel – Derrylahan. Funny thing was that our GPS told us in the middle of nowhere with nothing even on the horizon – you have reached your destination! Thank god there were some people to guide us. What is scary the appeared out of nowhere just when they were needed. How did they know?! Anyway people at the hostel are cool and they got me the internet so now they are my best friends. After food in a fancy restaurant we just went home and checked the national lottery – we are not millionaires but I don’t want to talk about it! Ciarán is fast asleep and I am writing this journal in the middle of nowhere and absolutely falling asleep. Minute ago I thought I could see and hear the thunder. I am paranoid with those thunders I guess. Anyway it’s raining and very windy outside which makes it a bit spooky. It’s all way too quiet for my standards. Tomorrow Slieve League and trip back to Dublin.

 5^th April 2010 – Day 4.

Śmingus Dyngus is a tradition during Polish Easter that people pour water on themselves for good luck mostly. So I planned to pour bucket of water on Ciarán in the morning but then I forgot and just splashed few drops after washing my hands. He seemed a bit surprised but in a rather “is she crazy again” way.

Anyway the day started nicely as we decided to treat ourselves and have an Irish breakfast. The Blue Haven was the place and I strongly recommend it for the breakfast as it was too much, very fresh and cheap.

It was very grey and windy day but anyway we decided to go to the Slieve League. The way to it was absolutely mental: weird signs showing routes other way, gates and sheep on the road that don’t want to move even if you almost touch them with your car bumper. But it is all worth a hassle. Cliffs are very wild, steep and because of the weather (very strong wind and speed light moving clouds from the Atlantic – we like those!) the ambience of the place was mystical. I really loved the fog or I should rather say very low clouds on the top of the cliffs. Amazing place. After maybe 30 minutes we decided to go back as we were almost blown off the mountain. I could literally lay on the wind, it was so strong.

Unfortunately after Slieve League we knew it’s only the way home and we had just few stops on the way. First was just 15 minutes away – Muckross Head, a lovely flat peninsula with small cliffs and nice beach. Then the journey seemed very quick: Donegal Town, Ballyshannon and back to Northern Ireland again for a short while to see Lower and Upper Lough Erne areas. We actually chose less popular road which was parallel to famous A46. Therefore we saw Tully and Monea Castles, or rather ruins of those castles in the middle of nowhere but they were very nice and there were sun spells, so it really looked good. Then we went through Enniskillen to Castle Coole, which was not as cool as the other ones. We went off the road again to explore alternative way from the castle to Lisnaskea and Derrylin beside the Lower Lough Erne. We were back to the Republic and then it was even faster: Belturbet, Cavan and food, short stop in Kells to take few photos, Navan and back home in Dublin.

I have to say this trip was truly fantastic. I didn’t have such a good time and be that tired for a long long time. Now I have to go and have a look at the photos, especially those infrared and long exposure ones.

Toraigh stole my heart. Now I know why I planned to visit it for years and even tried to get there three year ago with Ciarán. This time we made it and I must say it is one of those places that you feel at home after few minutes. Also Donegal is a beautiful county and every 15 minutes the landscape changes and surprises you after every turn. I strongly recommend it to everybody, I know I will be back there very soon.

My photos from the trip: http://www.flickr.com/photos/schelly/sets/72157623666396365/

My Agnostic Theism Karma

When I was small I was always thinking it is quite posh to talk about the karma. Never actually I wondered what it is or what does it mean. I was raised as a catholic – well raised is too much to say. As a citizen of a strongly catholic country I just had to be one. The problem was, that except religion classes at my school, which were obligatory, I never got in touch of religion at home. Well one of my grannies is completely mad catholic but I just saw her in summer time and never took much notice of that. Of course we celebrated traditions like – blessing Easter Eggs and Christmas Eve. But that’s it. I never went to church (except wedding and funerals). So things changed when I was seven and started school. I was forced to learn prayers by heart – I never did – and our nun was from completely different planet! Anyway next year came and we had first communion. I just remember it was completely nuts. All my friends were just talking what they will get, what they will wear (girls) and how will they curl their hair to look like angels. Honestly! Everyday we had classes at church and we had to learn and practice all this shit. When finally the day had come – according to my nun – my life would change incredibly and I will be part of fantastic (don’t mix with fanatic) community – nothing changed, I didn’t feel in any way special, whole ceremony was funny and weird. But hey I had the coolest dress and shoes! Imagine how heretic I was in what I was wearing! Ok. Here is the type: as a girl you had to have your hair long and curled and with big white wrath on your head (it’s pagan tradition by the way hee, hee, hee), long, well too long white, wedding like dress and flat white shoes! Now imagine me! I had all my hair got in a small bun with few white tiny flowers in it, my dress was white of course but very simple and only ¾ length, so just covering my knees and I had white, patent, high heel shoes. Everybody was staring at me and my nun almost got heart attack and took my mum aside to tell her that this is unheard of. Anyway it was way too late to change and I was in the front row because of my extraordinary height (ha ha ha – nowadays I am still in front lines as my height didn’t change much form when I was eight). So the mass went quickly, I was disappointed I didn’t feel anything but the food my mum did that day was great. Week after all my friends were going to the church and I didn’t really feel and see the point of doing so. My parents told me (I was eight) that I can choose what I want to believe in and after doing the communion and confirmation will be easier if I want to get married in this country ever. Also they told me that I don’t have to go to church if I don’t want to and that they won’t go with me if I decide to do so.
I didn’t go. Also I realized that I don’t really believe in all that was said about Catholicism. I got pretty interested in mythologies, legends and religions of the world. Also I studied history, astrology and fortune-telling. I never denied god, an energy, mother nature, superpower that is taking care of us. 
 
It took me quite a long time to figure out what I really believe in and couple of years ago I event learned that there are more people like me and that this thing has a name! It is agnostic theism. As, one and only, wikipedia would say: it’s also called religious or spiritual agnosticism. It is the view of those who do not claim to know existence of any deity, but still believe in such an existence. Also this view do not agree with any religious knowledge and all the tradition and stories in holy books are seen more as legends or mythology.
 
This is quite strange to read about it in the internet if that is exactly what you think. So I tell you exactly what I believe in and I don’t want to hurt anybody’s feelings here, because honestly, I just don’t care what you want to or what you believe in, it is absolutely up to you, I respect you, it’s you’re life and you can do whatever you want, I just might not agree with you at some points, which makes us – human beings – so wonderfully complicated, different and therefore interesting. So you can stop reading now or continue to know my point of view on life at the moment – I say at the moment because it all might change someday. 
 
First of all I believe in god. But not in the old guy with the beard, or Allah, or Yahweh or whatever you call it, even if it has many names. How you believe in god and what religion you practice is usually determined by the place you were born or the nation you belong to. That has nothing to do with you and who you are. I don’t believe in any organized religion. Most just appeared because people didn’t understand nature and what was happening in the world and that is very obvious that they/we had to see the greater power than us. All the tradition and mythology are fantastic! I really enjoyed them a lot (though I admit I didn’t read them all and not in full – my plan is to do it when I retire). Religions were created my visionaries and really strong personas. This is incredible that they moved the nations and people for so many centuries and still have strong believers and followers. I honestly really admire those people (true believers not extremists – that is sick) – I just simply have too many questions and doubts, I know and understand too many things and religion has not enough answers. But I am not that rational after all as I believe in astrology and fortune-telling (I’m a beginner tarot reader myself) and I believe in many unexplained things (you might call the miracles, omens, ghosts, coincidence and destiny), my spiritual life and beliefs are quite tolerant, so definitively there has to be something there, and there would be too much of coincidence in my life. I think it is a source of vital energy that makes the world spin, creates opposites to all that exists and makes us who we are. I think that we (as our generation) will not be able to ever discover or learn about that, maybe other generations will reach such an advanced level that they will discover what IT really is. At the moment we will not get there for sure as we don’t even know half of how our brain works. One day we will reach that evolutionary level (or not) to find out if god exists or not – now we cannot, so there is no point to argue about it. I think it’s basically only up to you what you want to believe in – only 600 years ago people would die for idea that the Earth is flat. So I won’t tell you if it exists or not. I personally think it is, if you don’t that fine with me, if you do, that’s fine with me either.
 
More controversial idea on god/knowledge would be my idea of astrology. Well I think it is all combined and human brain is set to know/see/read future from signs given us by nature. Like any other field. Why some people know how to do it and why others don’t – it is simple – I know history and I can write but I don’t know math. They forced me to learn it at school and I still haven’t got a fucking clue, why I had to and what the hell it is all about. What’s more I really don’t care. I have a calculator in my mobile phone and I’m happy. But many people say it is important and relevant – I cannot see that in any way. So therefore there are fortune tellers and people who don’t believe them. I experienced too many things not to believe that – though as any other subject it is not always right. You have to read between the lines – in math you can as well if they are parallel. As I said before – one day we will reach a level when everybody can learn it (most of the people can already). Me as a Libra and a woman have quiet good intuition – when you practice, you get better – that’s what I do. I was always interested horoscopes and tarot, so I began to read it. Still I have to learn a lot but you can see the results quite quickly. Honestly it is very easy. Fortune telling is: brain, intuition, experience and knowledge of old symbols, mythologies, legends and history, a bit of psychology and psychiatry. If you have brain and like to use it more than you’re average 10% – here you go, open your own business and be a fortune teller. I am being a bit sarcastic here, but I will be quoted in the next 1000 years. Ha ha!
 
So that’s my beliefs. I hope I haven’t missed anything, if I did I will bore you again with another one.
 
Now that was a short introduction to my karma essay. I am just joking. But the concept of karma was quiet close to me all the time. It’s like matter and antimatter. Everything has its opposite in the world, so there is always balance of “bad” and “good”. According to Indian religions – through the law of karma, the effects of all deeds actively create past, present, and future experiences, thus making one responsible for one’s own life, and the pain and joy it brings to him/her and others. Also in polish tradition we have a proverb saying “oliwa sprawiedliwa zawsze na wierzch wyplywa” (oil righteous always come to the top) – which basically means that whatever you do (bad or good), it will come out to the light sooner or later and come back to you. Unfortunately and fortunately this is so true. I could give you millions of examples. From simple everyday ones, to quite drastic and unpleasant. Lately I had too many occasions of coincidence, karma or oil being just too righteous for me and people I know.
I start with the good news. Last few years I was working my ass off, studying, moving to a different country (back and forth because of my studies), I was doing voluntary Internships, in my previous jobs I was used, underpaid and treated like shit. Then I was finishing studies and of course I was treated like shit because this is how you treat students in Poland. But I always was the nice one and working hard cause that’s what you have to do, at least I was raised this way. Then I came back and there were no jobs, so I took the job that I said I will never take and just for money/to make a living. Imagine how I felt. Trust me it wasn’t good. I was super experienced, with education and degree and I was doing something that I hate for American corporation. I felt shit, humiliated and completely without dignity left, my self respect and esteem did not exist. In that exact moment I got a phone call, for which I was waiting whole year not to mention whole life. I got dream job, in dream place, on a dream position with not so dream salary but I was never dreaming about this anyway. In just few seconds my whole life turned upside down and started to be positive. It is like an avalanche effect – from that day everything seems to go the right direction (ok it is far from being perfect but I don’t want it to be). It is karma coming back, it is my oil coming to the top. Finally I feel like the right is fighting wrong. It is just amazing because I worked for it so hard that I am actually scared now that it might go wrong. I know it’s mad but after few years I had, you have to understand me. Also I don’t want to boast too much or finish hard work or trying now – because that will come back as well.
I can also see it among my friends – I know a lot of hard working people, who did a lot in their lives – they work, study, try hard and are patient though it is not easy. And they are rewarded in the end. It is amazing like last few months have been successful for so many of them and how the assholes get kicked in the ass. I’m sorry it is harsh but it’s true. My bad karma came back to me too, I am not saint and I can be a true bitch if I want to. I was always saying that if you nice, sooner or later it comes back to you, if you’re an asshole it works exactly the same way.
Another – drastic example – is my math teacher. She was the biggest bitch I have ever met in my life. I swear to my pants! There is nobody on this world that I hate! I hated her with the purest hate! She was the worst and most evil person I have ever met! Ironically she died on April’s Fools Day last year so when I heard the story I have laughed my ass off. Then I learned it’s true. Ok I wasn’t laughing, but I will be honest – I also surprised myself with it – I was not sad or feel compassion, I just didn’t feel anything. I didn’t care at all. I think that is the worse “revenge” she could get – nobody felt anything. Imagine that only few people came for the funeral and nobody from her family! I didn’t go because all I could do there was to drink champagne and dance on her grave, so I decided I will not do scenes. But I couldn’t go because that person never had my respect. I also learned that she died from bone cancer – it is most painful of all. I will not say she deserved it, nobody does, but that is karma. Even at your end the oil will come to the top if you want it or not.
 
The good thing is that in few people I noticed huge changes, they learned, they got more experienced, they finally understood and they changed their lives. That is extremely good and I am very happy to see that. I can see it in me and in few of my best friends and other people I know. Good and bad things happened to all of us but we all worked on it. Some of us learned the lesson and they are my friends, some never will and I can just wish them good luck in life, because I strongly believe they will need it.
 
M.

Tribute To White Wine

 

After having a lovely glass of white wine with my dearest house mate Iwona, who is by the way amazing painter. We both decided to do something artistic. Yeah this is the main duty of alcohol – it makes you feel incredibly fantastic artist, who will conquer the world, make peace and love and be remembered for centuries. Well at least it works on us this way – if you, dear reader, feel different after alcohol, that’s absolutely ok, it means you are probably more normal than we are but at least we have loads of fun.

So Iwona started painting and I started writing, the only problem is that she knows what she is painting and I still don’t know, what I am writing about. I actually just asked her to confirm that, and guess what! Yes, she knows what she is painting and I still don’t know to write about.

Naturally I have millions of ideas like: why some people are so empty and in love with themselves (at least three examples since yesterday) or why stupid people have easier lives (at least 5 since last week) or do coincidence really exists or everything happens in purpose and has amazing deep meaning only known to chosen ones.

As you see the white wine is amazingly working to make you think about all those things at the same time. The funny thing is that you can finally multitask, because you also think about sex (Zygmunt!!!), chocolate (Lindt), next day workload (phones and e-mails), what you’re going wear (brown trousers and black turtle neck), what you going to eat (chicken salad) and finally how will you spend the next evening (white wine please). If the next day you remember half of those things that’s great, if you accomplish one fourth you’re fucking amazing and you need to drink white wine even more often!

So after my lovely two glasses I will tell you, dearest readers a little bit about myself. What I always find interesting about people are those little things that make us so unique and common among the others, those things that we learn about people after knowing them for ages, because it is too cheesy to ask or too difficult to answer. Like, for example, simple thing I used to ask my fellow kindergarten members: what is you’re favourite colour? When we are children everybody can answer this question without a hesitation, when you ask an adult she/he will say “oh, I like them all” or “I don’t know” etc. That’s bullshit! I know! I like blue and black and fuck the rest of the colours! They are nice but they’re not my favourite!

Another thing is food. Why millions of people don’t know what they want to eat! I do! I could live on chocolate, ice cream, coffee and wine! As I need some nutrition I eat vegetables and fruits, but trust me chocolate is definitively much more fun and I will never deny it! Can you imagine it was unknown in Europe before fifteenth century? Now you know the answer, why there were so many wars and they were torturing people – that is lack of sugar in your blood! That makes you unhappy and grumpy! Imagine you wake up in the morning, the weather is shitty and you need to go to work to the castle and they won’t even pay you for that! What’s more, you can’t have your toast with nutella and latte! What would you do? Hey I know! Let’s go and burn some witch!

I will change the subject for a while and move to art. As I do like common things, I do love Van Gogh! He was really cool guy. He cut his ear off and he painted himself, he was drinking absinth and generally he rocked. Also he created the most amazing painting ever – Café Terrace at Night! If you don’t know it, google it now. At least you know what to buy me this Christmas.

Another thing that I would appreciate as a gift is Nikon D70 that I can modify to take better infrareds and new Nikkor Fisheye lenses. Some good Belgian chocolate will do the trick as well.

When it comes to my general interests and hobbies. I like to collect cacti, minerals/stones and men.  Concerning the last listed, I like them with blue eyes, brains, and single the rest doesn’t really matter but still they are hard to find! I think it’s new, dying specie. Dear man if you read it and you think (!!!) you have all the mentioned above please do not hesitate to call me!

Other things that I like in no particular order are: voices of the sea, I actually can only relax listening to the waves. I think I was an elf in my previous life as I still can hear Ulmo’s music. I also like the feel of the wind in my hair, Iwona’s lava lamp and mustard.

One of my biggest hobbies though (except photography, writing and Ireland) are people. I love to watch them as they are really strange creatures. They are such a bunch of weirdoes! Each and every one of them is completely fucked up about something and if they say they’re not they are lying or they are to empty or too silly to realise this. Which is sad but I will not make them realise anymore, I played Mother Teresa couple of times and wanted to save them, make them think, dream, curse, free themselves, do whatever to break their inner emptiness, enter the rooms of their mind that they would never enter, well it worked few times actually, but in most cases it was too late! I want to finish that sarcastic thought of mine in an optimistic way, as all the readers actually don’t need to be saved and know what I am talking about.

What I say at the end of this weird essey-ish thing is that white wine is good for you!

Ostatnia Pusta Kartka

Ostatnia pusta kartka
Na dawno niewyrażane myśli
Czy to nie ironia?
Została tylko jedna
Ostatnia
Nie pozwala mi zrobić błędu
Ani kreślić niepotrzebnie
Czy zatem wiesz będzie prawdziwy?
Czy będzie taki jak ja chcę?
Czy raczej taki
Jak chce tego ostatnia kartka?A jednak skreśliłam
Jestem odważna
Zadzierać tak
Z ostatnią pustą kartką
Niegrzecznie z mojej strony
Wiem… przyznaję się
Może pozwoli mi teraz
Żebym opisała to, co czuje?
Czy bezczelnie się skończy
Zanim przejdę do sedna?
I znów wiersz będzie niedokończony

Wtedy powiem
„znów zabrakło mi pustej kartki”
Będzie to prawda?
Czy wymówka?
Wredny podstęp pustej kartki?
Czy brak natchnienia?
Brak talentu
Brak tematu…

I znów kreślę…

Może to właśnie pomysł!
By pisać wiersz o niczym…
O ostatniej pustej kartce
Która właśnie się skończyła

Dublin, 24.08.2006.

Dobry wieczór!

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Magda